Fiji Trip August 2001
(click on a photo to enlarge it)
We took off from Melbourne at 11pm on Thursday 2nd August,
destined for Nadi in Viti Levu, the main island of Fiji. We transferred by bus
in the early morning to our hotel for the first 5 days, the Warwick Fiji Resort,
on the southern coral coast.
This is a luxurious resort, with two pools, set on the beach,
nice tropical gardens, and four restaurants, etc....Our air-conditioned room had
a balcony from which we could see the sea. We ate well, swam, snorkeled to view
the coral, paddled a kayak out to the reef, and went for many long walks along
the palm-fringed beaches. It was a welcome escape from the long winter in
Victoria. Whilst based at the Warwick, we visited the nearby town of Sigatoka,
and the Tavuni Hill fort in the Sigatoka river valley above Nasoro village. Here
was one of the last cannibal outposts, infamous for the massacre of a
missionary.
On Wednesday 8th August, we left the Warwick in a hired car, and
drove along the coral coast towards the capital, Suva. We visited a lovely
remote resort called Crusoe's Retreat, and an interesting Cultural Centre at
Pacific Harbour. That evening we dined and slept at a B&B called Colonial
Lodge, in Suva, we enjoyed talking to our interesting Fijian hosts. Thursday
morning we walked all around Suva, and visited the Parliament. Then we drove
along King's Road up the eastern hills, alo ng gravel roads, through forests and
by waterfalls, and past Fiji's diary cattle high country. We gave a lift to a
group of 6 Fijian children walking home from school. That night we reached
Raki-raki, on the North coast.
We explored the north coast, and saw Ellington Wharf, from which
the car ferries depart for Vanua Levu. After seeing the rust-bucket of a
ferry, we were glad we had decided to fly direct to Taveuni Island rather than
attempt it over land and sea using buses and ferries. Then we visited Naiserlagi
Catholic Mission, 25km east of Raki-raki. Here perched on top of a hill with
magnificent views over the islands to the north, is an impressive cathedral-like
stone church. Inside there is a mural of the "Black Christ" depicting
native Fijians and Fijian Indians on either side of Christ on the cross. This
mural was commissioned in 1965 by the chaplain to the Von Trapp family Singers,
of "Sound of Music" fame. We continued or tour west wards and stayed
overnight in "Rosie's Apartments" in Nadi.
On Saturday 11th August we visited the garden of the sleeping
giant, a beautiful hillside orchid garden establish by TV star Raymond Burr of
Perry Mason fame. We visited Vada, where the first landing of Fijians occurred
centuries ago. Then we drove along the southern "Coral Coast". We
visited Biasevu village, drank kava with the village headmen, then were escorted
to Biasevu waterfalls, fording 4 or 5 streams bare-footed on the way. Our young
guide, Abraham, told us how he and his friends used to "wash down some kava
with a beer". We then drove on to Suva, and stayed once again at
"Colonial Lodge B&B".
The next morning we checked in at Nasori airport for our flight
to Matei on Taveuni Island. We walked from the air-strip to Bibi's Hide-away,
where we stayed 3 nights in a comfortable buré set in tropical gardens. We
explored the Matei area and enjoyed an interesting evening meal at "Karin's
garden", a cliff top restaurant run by a German couple.
On
Monday we caught a local bus to Bouma. One passenger on the bus brought his pig,
parrot, his family and all their personal belongings with him! We walked throgh
magnificent scenery to Bouma water falls. On Tuesday we shared a taxi with a
young Canadian traveler, to the Lavena coastal walk. Our taxi driver, Arjay,
came along with us for the walk. It was raining, later it was pouring, but we
were still able to appreciate the coastal and forest scenery. In order to reach
the water falls, we had to swim the last 100 metres. The falls were very
impressive, cascading from sheer rock into a deep canyon.
On Wednesday we flew back to Nasori/Suva, then shared a taxi
along the south coast to Nadi, where we stayed at Rosie's Apartments for 2
nights. We spent Thursday shopping in Nadi, in the pouring rain. On Friday 17th
August we caught our flight back home to Melbourne, ending an interesting,
different, and enjoyable holiday.
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